We packed up and were on our way by 7. Shahe took me a a short tour of the fish market in Esenada, we changed dollars for peso and then continued our way south. During the day we stopped at 3 military check points, where young soldiers with semi-automatic rifles asked us questions then waved us through. We traveled past crop land and green fields, shallow streams and olive groves, strawberry fields, hours of high desert with an amazing diversity of cactus and finally miles of sand dunes and salt flats before arriving at the lagoon previously known by the name of the whaling captain that murdered so many of the magnificent sentient beings that migrate along the coast of both Californias each year. Tonight again we are blessed by a burning orange sunset and huge moon, this time rising golden at the horizon. Shahe's flute playing and the wind have replaced last night's ocean music, we play rummy again but this time I win, the wind totally disappears suddenly and we fall asleep to an utterly silent moon glow.