Sunday, March 20, 2011
Aptos to Ensenada (almost)
As our journey south begins, we are treated to Green hills all the way down into northern Baja. It was all easy driving except for San Diego traffic, and we decided to cross into Mexico at the border upon learning that Visas weren't required. We chose a toll route, "Scenic Highway 1", that lived up to its name south along the coast. The dramatic Islas de Coranado lay off shore and later we were treated to a fine view of the sun, lit up like a tall ship on fire, sinking into the water. The coast here reminds both of us of our own beloved Big Sur. The road hugs the cliff, and there is little to mar nature's raw beauty. As dusk gathered, we saw a small sign advertising family camping, and decided to abandon our plan of making it to Ensenada that day. We soon were to be most pleased with our decision. Winding down a steep dirt road, we came to a guard gate, where we were greeted by Francisco, a polite man who informed us that it would cost $15 USD to camp here, which included our pick of the campsites as there were no other campers. We settled on a small rise above the water, quickly setup camp and strolled out to our little deserted rocky beach. A heavy surf pounded the shore, each wave pulled scores of boulders into the water as it retreated, only to toss them back in the next, the noisy repetition proved mezmerizingly beautiful. Not finished with this first day masterpiece, the oversized 'super'' moon rose, pouring it's light through a gap in the mountains above us to the East, illuminating the the surf line in a dazzling primal show. We had neither planned nor hoped for anything so nice as this, and after a pleasant time of playing cards by the truck's shell light, we drifted off to sleep in the moonlight, serenaded by the sea, alone and held close to the wild heart of life....